Hannah Howard
The possibilities are endless with these beloved classics.
Just one generation ago, both feta and goat cheese were hard to come by in the U.S. — they were considered exotic, esoteric ingredients. Then, a team of artisan cheese pioneers like Allison Hooper in Vermont and Laura Chenel in California began transforming fresh goat milk into small-batch cheese, and chefs wondered how they lived without these essential ingredients. These days, this creamy, salty, tangy goodness is ubiquitous.
“In recent decades, goat cheese has surged in popularity in the United States, becoming a common feature on restaurant menus and in grocery stores,” says Alex Coenen, president at LaClare Creamery.
The global goat cheese market was valued at $6 billion in 2022, and is projected to reach $9.2 billion by 2032, growing at a CAGR of 4.5% from 2023 to 2032, according to a report published by Allied Market Research in February.
LaClare Creamery uses local milk from Wisconsin dairy farms to produce excellent goat cheeses. Proximity between farm and creamery “ensures an unrivaled, fresh, clean-tasting product that cannot be imitated,” Coenen explains.
Feta is also poised for growth. “Feta is a favorite among consumers,” says Jenny Englert, director of marketing at Saputo USA. In fact, Allied Market Research reported that the feta market was worth $10.5 billion in 2019, and it’s expected to reach $15.8 billion by 2028. “In addition to the beloved tangy taste of feta, there is also a perceived better-for-you appeal of the cheese, which makes it attractive to consumers,” Englert explains.
Fun fact: Cows consume beta-carotene by way of the grass that they graze upon, which shows up in milk as a pale-yellow color. Goats do not absorb this pigment from their diet, and you can identify goat’s milk cheeses by their striking white color.
A STORIED, ANCIENT HISTORY
First, let’s define our terms. Goat cheese is any cheese crafted with goat’s milk, although for this story we’re talking about variations of the classic French chèvre, a word that simply means goat in French. In the eighth century, the Moors brought goats to the Loire Valley where French goat cheeses, or chèvres, were first made.
The small, fresh buttons were perfect for the temperate climate in the valley — and early marketers distinguished their wares with unique shapes like bells, buttons, logs and doughnuts. These diminutive cheeses are bright, pristine white (unless ashed black, for a dramatic coat that doesn’t impart any taste), sweet, moist and tender.
Compared to French goat’s cheese, Greek feta has an even more ancient history. The first written mention of feta appears in Homer’s Odyssey, which dates from near the end of the eighth century B.C. Since then, this favorite has been at the center of Greek cuisine, culture and life.
The word “feta” means slice or slab in Greek. That term originated in the 17th century — before then, feta was just called “cheese” in Greece — and refers to the tradition of slicing up cheese and placing it in barrels, a practice that continues to this day. Brining is an essential part of what makes feta unique. The cheese is traditionally made with sheep’s milk, although up to 30% of the milk can come from goats. In the U.S., we can find cow, sheep, and goat milk in feta. Feta has a tangy, fresh and briny flavor and a creamy, yet crumbly, texture. Sheep’s milk imparts a buttery richness, and goat’s milk adds acidity.
Real Greek feta comes with a “protected designation of origin” (PDO) certification. Only 2% of feta consumed in the U.S. hails from Greece. Feta is also now made around the world. Président’s feta, which is made in the U.S. with cow’s milk, has a balanced mildness and creamy luxuriousness that is less intense than other options. Bulgarian feta tends to be bursting with salinity and tang, while French feta is often milder. There’s a whole rainbow of feta flavors and possibilities — and the same applies to goat’s milk cheese.
MODERN TAKES ON BELOVED CLASSICS
The art of crafting goat cheese has evolved over generations and continents. American producers, inspired by tradition but not beholden to it, have had a lot of fun and success making their own versions of these classics.
“While some core traits of goat cheesemaking are timeless, parts of the process are constantly being improved upon,” says Coenen. “Cheesemakers like us experiment with aging techniques, flavor infusions, and styles to create an impressive array of offerings — from fresh, tangy chèvre to aged, complex artisan cheeses.”
Flavored goats are also on-trend, sparking culinary imaginations around the country. Last year, LaClare added Chili Lime, Mediterranean and a seasonal Pumpkin to their offerings.
Montchevre (which is part of the Saputo portfolio), offers a long lineup of flavors for a variety of occasions, flavor palates and dishes, from as sweet as blueberry vanilla to as savory as jalapeno honey.
From Laura Chenel Marinated Black Truffle to Cypress Grove Purple Haze, flavored with lavender and fennel pollen, goat cheese makes a great canvas for vivid flavors.“I believe our collective appetite for social media is absolutely affecting our propensity for trying new foods and recipes,” says Englert. Consumers are eager to be delighted and even stretched outside of their comfort zones.
Consumers are discovering — and loving — unique flavor mashups because they take the guesswork out of what pairs well together. “The Montchevre Duos are a great nod to that, offering a two-in-one flavor combination including Sweet Hot Peppers + Garlic Herb and Blueberry + Lemonade,” shares Englert. It’s a fun way to add bright flavor notes to traditional goat cheese logs and bring creativity to snacking and recipes.
Once they take home a log or a block, they have plenty of delicious possibilities. “Goat cheese can be prepared and enjoyed in a variety of ways like melting it into a pasta, crumbling it on top of your favorite pizza, or pairing it with a sweet fruit jam or spicy chutney on a cracker,” says Englert.
Baked feta pasta went viral a few years ago, and it remains as a satisfying, simple weeknight dinner. Feta is also genius whipped into a herbed feta dip, baked into a spanakopita, crumbled into orzo, or sprinkled on a classic Greek salad. It brings richness, depth, salinity, and tang — lots of flavor and plenty of nuance.
Producers are also innovating with smart ways to package these cheeses. Président now contains their feta, which has a crumbly yet creamy texture, in a newly imagined packaging featuring less plastic and a resealable peel film to help maintain freshness and allow for several uses.
These goat cheese and bacon crostini are perfect for sampling at the deli department or sharing with friends at a cocktail party. They’ll keep customers and friends alike coming back for more.